SOUTHEAST ASIA

BHUTAN

The total flight time from KATHMANDU to PARO is approximately one hour. If you research flying to BHUTAN, you’ll quickly learn that PARO airport is considered the world’s most dangerous international airport to land in. Here are just a few of the challenges:

Only two airlines operate flights into PARO, and their pilots need special training and certification to land there, of which there are only about ten. There is no radar to guide planes into the airport, so the pilot must fly entirely in manual mode. Flights only take place during the day, and if clouds obstruct visibility, the flight is canceled. Given that the surrounding mountains reach heights of up to 18,000 feet and the runway is a mere 7,432 feet long, the pilot must maneuver around the peaks before ascending rather abruptly.

As our plane weaved through the jagged peaks, my heart raced. We began our ascent, with our pilot banking our prop plane to the left, then to the right, and then to the left again, essentially dodging the mountain summits before veering right once more and ascending rapidly until our wheels touched the ground. Afterward, he applied reverse thrust so aggressively that my body lurched forward with more force than any landing I’ve ever experienced on over 1,000 flights. As we landed, I couldn’t help but think about my upcoming flight to Delhi, hoping for a similarly smooth ascent over the mountain ridge and clear skies to witness the highest point on Earth.

One other thing that became evident while ascending into PARO was the sheer beauty of BHUTAN. I was already captivated by the steep contours of the HIMALAYAN foothills, perfectly complemented by the minimalist building structures. BHUTAN, with a population of only 770,000, and PARO International airport has just three gates. Upon landing, I strolled through the small airport and was delighted by the immaculate and beautiful surroundings.

Customs and immigration procedures were effortless and took only minutes. Apart from those in uniform, local men and women wore the Gho, traditional attire featuring a consistently unassuming pattern and subdued colors that hung loosely and comfortably on their frames, always accompanied by their welcoming smiles. I was greeted by my guide, Rinchen, and my driver, Thewing, and it was evident from the start that the BHUTANESE mentality is unlike anywhere else in the world I’ve ever been. They are kind, humble, submissive, spiritual, and have a profound appreciation for nature, unlike anywhere else. BHUTAN is truly magical, and the BHUTANESE are eager to share their simple and beautiful heritage, leaving you with no choice but to be similarly inspired

It was now about an hour’s drive to the Pelyang Boutique, my hotel in THIMPHU, a city of about 110,000, and the Capital of BHUTAN. On the way, Rinchen explained that we would be following the immaculate and beautiful PARO River that surrounded us for about halfway, then it would head off to our right side and return when we reached THIMPHU. Nestled in the foothills of the Himalayan mountains, the buildings appeared to epitomize architectural perfection, fitting in beautifully with their surroundings. Rinchen’s English was very good with enough of an Asian accent to remind you that home was on the other side of the earth. He presented a nonstop dialogue about the history and sociology of his people for which he was very proud. I had a lot of questions, but about halfway through, my indulgences from the previous evening were setting in, and I fell asleep.

Arriving in THIMPHU, I checked into my hotel, which was amazingly spotless, simple, and perfect with wood and stone finishes that would impress any design professional. I would only be here for one night and could only hope that my only other two nights in PARO would offer such spectacular accommodations. Like nearly every property that I’ve stayed in in both Nepal and BHUTAN, the property appeared empty. I later found out that only 1 other room was occupied by an Indian couple who I never saw.

Rinchen first took me to a paper making factory. This is nothing like the paper mills that we are familiar with, nor is the paper. It utilizes the most ancient of manufacturing techniques offering a finished product of a primitive type of paper used for scrolls and other historic documents. Their product is still in demand today for those that want to replicate these. And it is in such high demand worldwide that the factory can’t make it fast enough. But then, why should they? Growth isn’t necessarily the business model for all businesses, and their output has not changed much since this factory’s inception.

Rinchen explained that the penis is a sign of power here in BHUTAN, and we had various discussions about BHUTAN’s openness to sexuality, including their tradition of “Night Hunting”. Rinchen engaged in the “Sport” where he grew up in the east BHUTANESE countryside. He tells me that it now takes 5 days to get there by car, and he still goes there to visit his parents.

Night Hunting has nothing to do with killing, capturing, or even animals, but rather is a sport where men sneak into houses of women they find desirable in hopes of fulfilling their sexual exploits. They often didn’t know who they may have impregnated and traditionally didn’t have to take responsibility for such unless caught by her parents and a pregnancy takes place. If you are caught by the parents and a pregnancy does not occur, the life of the male goes on, and he is free of any responsibility. Rinchen tells me that this still takes place today, but is quite rare as cell phones changed things and DNA testing is taking hold.

As I moved east in my adventure from INDIA to NEPAL, and now to BHUTAN it was evident that the women became more and more beautiful. We talked about politics quite a bit as he was as interested in the US as I was in BHUTAN. The King is an oligarch and makes all the ultimate decisions but generally couldn’t be bothered. My impression was that the people of BHUTAN are very loyal to their King and his family as they carry the Bhudhist tradition, and BHUTAN, percentage-wise, has the greatest population of Bhudists than any other nation by far. Pictures of their royal family are everywhere.

There are laws, but generally they are fairly open to changes in tradition such as eating beef. Cows are sacred and stroll around everywhere, but if a family chooses to eat beef it isn’t prohibitive as it is in India or Nepal. He tells me that they are a people that tend not to let tradition get in their way if it does not negatively impact their fellow citizens or their natural environment. WHERE DO I SIGN UP!! Signing up for citizenship would be nearly impossible, and purchasing property for non-citizens is prohibited.

Rinchen emphasized several times that it wasn’t until 1962 that the nation of BHUTAN went through a developmental revolution. For the first time, an actual road was built from one end to the other. Electricity was introduced, and it wasn’t until we were privileged to get the Internet that they had their first television sets. While a quasi democracy, of the 777,000 citizens aged over 18, vote for the parliamentary leaders in their five districts. There are 2 branches of government similar to our Senate and Congress, but there are about 5 parties that go through a 2-stage voting process like the playoffs of some sports. One exception is that you get fired at age 65, and while women are beginning to find acceptance in government, their numbers are well under 10%.

Their people generally look upon governmental actions as a renaissance that raised them from extreme poverty into a wonderful transformation for their nation. Another thing implemented by their government was the SDF, a Sustainable Development Fee. I paid $200/day. When planning this adventure, but with further research, and now having experienced BHUTAN, I conclude that this is an incredible bargain. Not only is this place magical, but the SDF includes a great hotel and guide service. When passing through immigration leaving BHUTAN, the attendant told me the SDF was just reduced to $100/day!

We visited a Buddhist temple, the construction of which left me utterly amazed. Completed in 1972, I will do my best to convey my experience through words and images, though please note that photographs are not permitted within this temple. To truly appreciate its beauty, one must experience it in person. I can hardly fathom how they crafted what I witnessed within this structure. The intricate details of each sculpted work within the temple appear as if they were created using some advanced technology, when in fact, it was all meticulously crafted by hand using primitive tools and techniques. These incredible works are at the center of the temple, where it’s a part of their spiritual practice to walk in clockwise circles and touch their heads to the base of these sculptures.

Another heartwarming aspect is the presence of BHUTANESE currency, both inside and outside the temple, bills were strewn about everywhere. While it might be tempting for some to take a bill or two, the karmic consequences of such an act would surely outweigh any fleeting gains, leaving one spiritually stricken for eternity. Outside, I found myself surrounded by local people, many of whom were the elders of their generation. This temple served as a gathering place for them to share and connect, with rice and noodles available free of charge, making it a place accessible to those less privileged. This sense of community is universal here, showcasing the practicality and uniqueness of their culture.