KATHMANDU, NEPAL
The timing was impeccable, as the transition from our hotel in POKHARA to KATHMANDU seemed flawless. Amidst the bustling crowds, I saw no other white people. Oh wait! There’s one!
Back at the Yatri & Buddy Hotel in KATHMANDU, I enjoyed a relaxing afternoon and discovered a great Chinese restaurant just down the block. It was a Thursday night around 7 PM, and the place was bustling. I had an appointment to meet my guide at 9 o’clock the following morning, although it wouldn’t be Rishi but someone else.
KATHMANDU and PATAN. Now having breakfast at the Yatri & Buddy hotel I was disappointed. This was my fourth breakfast in this hotel, and while the food was always good, all previous mornings went beautifully with me being among a few other patrons with a staff that did all they could to help you. This morning was the Asian Invasion! Apparently, a tour group from China booked the hotel, and the reality check reminded me that I have been living among the few privileged to appreciate such serenity and peacefulness.
I met with my guide Zaya, and my driver Lax, at nine as planned. Rishi was given the day off, but he came to introduce me to Zaya and see if I would accept another offer from Naba to be his guest for dinner that night. Honored, I agreed, and we would do so at 5:30.
My first destination with Zaya was PATAN. Like New York City has five boroughs, PATAN is part of KATHMANDU and is among the most ancient sections of the 2,000-year-old city. With over 50 Buddhist and Hindu temples in this small chunk of geography, PATAN holds a strong sacred tradition and once was separate as an independent nation. Zaya is a high school history teacher that lives in the area and because this was a holiday, Naba hired him for my tour. We then explored Durbar Square, a UNESCO World Heritage site filled with stunning palaces, courtyards, and temples. The architecture and intricate carvings were a testament to the rich history of the area. Zaya provided detailed explanations of the significance of each structure and the stories behind them while the people went about their sacred business.
We began visiting some temples built in the 15th – 16th century, and I was amazed at the detailed architecture, particularly since much of it was stone and bronze built with primitive tools. Zaya then took me to museums showing sculptures of the many gods from both religions. Conditions outside were cool, so I told Zaya I was “Museumed out,” so we headed back out. I again felt privileged to be able to direct our activities rather than being held to the schedule of a group tour..
Zaya enthusiastically ushered me into a store adorned with meticulously arranged shelves, showcasing a captivating array of Himalayan Singing Bowls and gongs. As a passionate percussionist, I couldn’t help but be filled with delight at the sight. The merchant graciously shared the rich heritage behind these ancient instruments, explaining that they have been a cherished tradition for millennia. Much like cymbals, it’s impossible for the maker to predetermine their exact sound. Only once they are crafted can their unique and enchanting tones be revealed. His demonstrations were enchanting, particularly when I was center stage.
Our next stop was the Pashupatinath Temple, one of the holiest Hindu temples in Nepal. Located on the banks of the Bagmati River, this temple complex is a sacred site for Hindu devotees and a place of cremation for the deceased. I observed the rituals and ceremonies taking place along the riverbank, which offered a glimpse into the spiritual practices of the local people. I certainly would have been fascinated by this, but having been to Varanasi India, a week before, it was surprisingly uneventful.
Cannabis is strictly forbidden in Nepal, unless you are a Yogi who have consumed Hashish regularly for thousands of years. I figured he must know something we don’t know so I allowed him to bless me.
Our journey led us to the awe-inspiring Bouda Stupa, a hallowed Buddhist sanctuary dating back over two millennia. Among the largest Buddhist Temples in the world I marveled at its grandeur, a monumental testament to human spirituality. A feast for both the senses and the soul, we dined at a charming restaurant overlooking the temple’s bustling plaza, where the festivities swirled around the colossal dome. The raindrops, though fleeting, added a touch of enchantment to the scene. I told Zaya, “Don’t worry, you are with me, and it only rains when we are indoors. It will stop when we leave.” Zaya acknowledged that Rishi told him about my gift. As we headed down the stairs, the rain stopped. Karma, we agreed.
We circumambulated the stupa along with pilgrims and visitors, absorbing the serene atmosphere and observing the colorful prayer flags fluttering in the breeze. As the lone adventurer on this tour, I found myself in complete control, orchestrating the symphony of sights and sounds that unfolded before me. The streets reverberated with the infectious rhythms of music and the joyful procession of families, each member a participant in the grand parade, playing instruments and adorned in whimsical costumes. The atmosphere was electric, an intoxicating blend of merriment and camaraderie, as I witnessed a sea of radiant smiles.
As we explored the hallowed grounds, my guide Zaya, with a twinkle in his eye, whispered, ‘They’ve unlocked the stairs to the upper level, closed since the days of COVID!’ I ascended with the eager crowd, and Zaya, in a moment of profound flattery, proclaimed me his ‘Dali Lama.’ It was a compliment that lifted my spirits to the heavens. In the car, Zaya, with a wink and a nod, declared, ‘This man is the luckiest on earth!’ His words were perhaps a subtle plea for a generous tip. In either case, it worked.
Back at my hotel, I bid farewell to Zaya and Lax, only to be pleasantly surprised by Rishi’s arrival a couple of hours later. We made our way to Naba’s office for a delightful dinner rendezvous.
In a heartwarming gesture, Naba presented me with two of the promised XXL T-shirts but also a lustrous yellow silk scarf. His fingers danced over its exquisite fabric as he extolled its craftsmanship. Naba then asked us to get a table downstairs and joined us shortly after, leading with his booming request for “more beer.” He was delighted to hear that the XXL T-shirts fit perfectly and he set the tone for a convivial evening, his parting words echoing in the air.
On our way back to the hotel, I stumbled upon the soulful strains of live jazz, a serendipitous encounter in the heart of Asian culture. Frankly, if there was anything that didn’t please me since leaving the US it was the music. With a final farewell to Rishi and a well-deserved tip, I joined the band’s spirited performance, letting the music wash over me like a refreshing rain and drank enough beer that I would later regret.
Morning came too soon, my head throbbing from the previous night’s revelry. At 6:15 AM, I met my driver, ready for the next chapter of my journey. As I checked out from the Yaris, Rishi’s presence ensured a seamless departure. And then, BHUTAN awaited me, a land of dreams and towering peaks. The anticipation soared as the plane ascended into the heavens. The HIMALAYAS unveiled their majesty through the parting clouds, and a collective gasp echoed through the cabin. MOUNT EVEREST, a monolithic titan, shared the stage with its mighty neighbors – LHOTSE, MAKALU, KANGCHENJUNGA, (I had seen KANGCHENJUNGA from the summit of POON HILL). It was a breathtaking tableau of nature’s grandeur, a testament to the Earth’s primal forces.
Rich Citro Adventures 