EGYPT

HURGHADA

As my bus finally left the desert and reached the coast of the Red Sea, everything changed dramatically. Gone were the ancient ruins, poverty-stricken cities, and stark desert. Suddenly, it felt more like I was arriving in South Beach.

There was traffic, every kind of shop and restaurant, tourist attractions, and an unmistakable international vibe. This isn’t exactly my style—but I was obviously all in at this point.

After finally climbing into Abdul’s pickup, we weaved through the chaos until we reached my room. Along the way, Abdul excitedly told me about a snorkeling trip he had planned for Sunday and suggested I book early to reserve my spot. I told him I would take my chances. I prefer to be as spontaneous as possible, and committing to something on Sunday from Friday night is not my style.

When I arrived at my room, I had to remind myself to roll with the punches. I was completely underwhelmed. It was small, not very clean, and the air conditioning was lacking—but I didn’t complain. We agreed that I would decide by the next morning whether to move to his other location. It was clear to me right then that it would be a last resort. It also made me realize just how impressed the Aussie ladies must’ve been that morning when I boarded their shuttle from the Hilton Luxor.

By now, I was famished. Abdul plugged “Alhalak’s Sea” restaurant into my Google Maps—it was a 10-minute walk. He told me to show the waiters a photo of the two of us, which I did, and I was treated like a VIP. They brought me to a counter filled with fresh fish on ice and let me choose one for my dinner. It ended up being one of the best seafood meals I’ve ever had, and only cost about $30 US.

As my bus finally left the desert and reached the Red Sea coast, everything changed dramatically. The ancient ruins, poverty-stricken cities, and barren desert vanished, replaced by a bustling, vibrant scene that felt more like South Beach than Egypt.

There was heavy traffic, countless shops and restaurants, tourist attractions, and an unmistakable international vibe. This wasn’t exactly my style—but at this point, I was all in.

After climbing into Abdul’s pickup, we navigated through the chaos to my room. Along the way, Abdul excitedly told me about a snorkeling trip planned for Sunday and urged me to book early to reserve a spot. I told him I’d take my chances—I prefer to stay spontaneous rather than commit days in advance.

When I arrived, I reminded myself to roll with the punches. The room was small, not very clean, and the air conditioning barely worked—but I didn’t complain. We agreed I’d decide by morning whether to move to his other place. It was clear that would be a last resort. I also realized how impressed those Aussie women must’ve been when I boarded their balloon shuttle from the Hilton Luxor.

By now, I was starving. Abdul plugged “Alhalak’s Sea” into Google Maps—a 10-minute walk. He told me to show the waiters a photo of us together, which I did, and I was treated like a VIP. They brought me to a counter of fresh fish on ice and let me choose dinner. It turned out to be one of the best seafood meals I’d ever had—just $30 USD.

I chose to take the long way back along the marina, which was lined with beautiful yachts. It reminded me of Newport, Rhode Island. Wonderful restaurants and just about every kind of shop imaginable were tucked along the waterfront. This kind of bustling, touristy insanity has never really been my style, though I can see why many people would love it.

Back at my dingy room, with barely sufficient A/C, I checked my app for the Hilton Hurghada Plaza. To my surprise, it was now available—and for just 30,000 points per night! I booked it for the following evening without hesitation.

The Hilton was over an hour’s walk away, but I figured it would be good exercise with my full pack—if I started early enough to beat the rising sun. I sent Abdul a thank-you message on WhatsApp, left the keys, and headed out.

Cab drivers pulled up, honking and gesturing for me to hop in—at least a dozen times. I waved them all off.

Leaving the marina area the streets were a mix of the charming and the broken. Some buildings were well-kept shops or residences, but most were run-down, seemingly abandoned, or permanently frozen in mid-construction.

Eventually, I made the right turn indicated by Google Maps and saw the sprawling peninsula that housed the Hilton Hurghada Plaza.

“Holy shit,” I thought. The complex was massive!

I chose to take the long way back, strolling along the marina, which was lined with beautiful yachts. It reminded me of Newport, Rhode Island—sleek vessels bobbing in the water, with a promenade full of upscale restaurants and every kind of shop you could imagine.

The waterfront was bustling with energy: tourists, locals, laughter, music, the scent of grilled seafood—all of it weaving together in a kind of vibrant chaos. It’s never really been my scene, but I could easily see why people love it.

Back in my dingy little room—where the A/C was barely putting up a fight—I opened the Hilton Hurghada Plaza app on a whim. To my surprise, a room had just become available. Even better: it was only 30,000 points per night. I didn’t hesitate. I booked it for the following evening.

The Hilton was over an hour’s walk from where I was staying, but I figured if I set out early enough, I could beat the sun and get a good workout even with my full pack. I sent Abdul a quick thank-you on WhatsApp, left the room key, and hit the road.

Along the way, at least a dozen cab drivers honked and pulled over, gesturing for me to hop in. I waved each one off with a smile and kept walking.

As I moved farther from the marina, the polished veneer gave way to a more typical Egyptian streetscape—a patchwork of charm and grit. Some buildings were thriving storefronts or tidy homes. Others were crumbling, abandoned, or half-built, as if frozen mid-dream.

Eventually, I made the right turn Google Maps had indicated, and that’s when I saw it: the sprawling peninsula that housed the Hilton Hurghada Plaza.

“Holy shit,” I thought. The place was massive.

At the street entry gate, I placed my pack on the first of two scanners. Again looking out of place, the attendant asked if he could help me. “I have a reservation,” I told him.

He looked at me with concern.

I threw my pack on and walked up the hill to the main entrance. Having arrived on foot—rather than pulling up in a car with designer luggage, and looking a bit haggard— I clearly raised a few eyebrows.

At the entrance to the building, I placed my tattered pack on the second scanner. Again, I was asked, “Can I help you?

The staff looked at me cautiously.

“I have a reservation,” I repeated.

The second attendant looked at me like he didn’t quite believe it. “Is this all your luggage?”. I said yes.

After getting through the scanner, they pointed to the right, where the floor was stacked with guests’ belongings waiting to be delivered to their rooms by staff.

“No thank you,” I said, slinging my pack over my shoulder and walking away.

Check-in time wasn’t until 3 p.m., and it was only 9 a.m., but the receptionist assured me that as a Lifetime Diamond Member, they’d do their best to accommodate me. I just needed to wait about 45 minutes.

During that time, I wandered around the property carrying my ragged pack and looking rather out of place. The complex was massive—countless pools, indoor and outdoor bars, shops, and restaurants.

I sat down with the activities attendant and scheduled a snorkeling trip from 4 to 6 p.m. He told me where to meet the boat, and I gave him $25 USD in cash.

When I returned to the check-in desk, they called for the manager. He came out, introduced himself, gave me his card, and asked, “Why are you only staying one night? We’d certainly love it if you stayed here a month!”

I smiled, and he assured me that if I needed anything at all, I should contact him directly.

Hilton always goes out of its way for Lifetime Diamond Members—and this was no exception.

More than impressed, I walked into my corner suite: it was about 1,500 square feet, with two bathrooms, two open-air sliding doors, and a 500-square-foot terrace. I later learned it was called the Blue Bay Suite. A placard at the front desk listed the price at $660 per night!

Where is Nancy when you need her!

The temperature of the red Sea was perfect. I swam and showered and was at the water sports activity center at 4 o’clock.

I boarded the boat and met with only one couple that was accompanying me for our snorkeling adventure. She was from Venezuela and him, Switzerland. Neither of them had ever snorkeled before, and they ended up with the dive Guide who trained them throughout the following two hours. I was on my own and found the marine life to have met all of my expectations. One thing that stood out beyond any of my diving experience was an abundance of beautiful jellyfish. Concerned, I checked with the dive master, and he assured me “They do not sting”. Here a few short videos that you’ll probably find unimpressive. I can assure you, ya just had to be there.

At the street gate, I placed my pack on the first of two scanners. Looking out of place, the attendant asked if I needed help. “I have a reservation,” I said. He looked concerned.

I walked up the hill to the main entrance, arriving on foot with my ragged pack—raising eyebrows.

At the second scanner, staff again asked if I needed help, eyeing me skeptically. “Is this all your luggage?” one asked. I nodded. They pointed to piles of guests’ bags, but I declined help and carried my pack myself.

Check-in was at 3 p.m., but as a Lifetime Diamond Member, they promised to try to accommodate me in 45 minutes. I wandered the vast property—pools, bars, shops—feeling out of place.

I booked a snorkeling trip from 4 to 6 p.m. for $25 cash.

The manager soon appeared, welcomed me warmly, and gave his card, encouraging me to reach out if needed. Hilton clearly treats Diamond Members well.

My corner suite was stunning—1,500 sq ft with two bathrooms, open-air sliding doors, and a 500-sq-ft terrace. The Blue Bay Suite was listed at $660 per night.

The Red Sea was perfect for swimming. Later, I met a Venezuelan-Swiss couple for snorkeling. They trained with the dive guide while I explored solo, amazed by abundant jellyfish. Worried, I asked the dive master, he assured me they don’t sting.

Here are a few short videos—may seem unimpressive, but you had to be there.

I took advantage of the free happy hour for diamond members, but stuck to my commitment of no alcohol. I then had a fabulous dinner at the buffet, 800 EGP, ($16) which included, for the first time in Egypt, a salad bar as good as anything you normally get at home.

Waking up the next morning, the wind was intense. I was thankful I had gone snorkeling the day before and hadn’t committed to any activities for that day or night. Had I committed to the snorkeling trip with Abdul and waited till this morning I would’ve never even gotten to snorkel on the red Sea. Now it was time to make a decision.

I shot a video of my beautiful suite, thinking I’d probably stay another night. But after further consideration, I decided it was time to move on.

I enjoyed the free happy hour for Diamond members but stuck to no alcohol. Dinner at the buffet was fabulous—800 EGP ($16)—and included a salad bar as good as anything back home.

The next morning brought intense wind. I was glad I’d gone snorkeling the day before and hadn’t committed to Abdul’s trip that day—I might have missed out entirely.

I filmed my beautiful suite, thinking I’d stay another night, but after some thought, I decided it was time to move on.

Next on my list was a visit to Alexandria, Egypt—the historic city founded by Alexander the Great around 300 BCE and Located on the Mediterranean coast.

However, getting to Alexandria from Hurghada would require traveling through Cairo.

My new plan was to enjoy the luxury of the Hilton Hurghada Plaza for the rest of the day—thankfully, they granted me a 4:00 p.m. late checkout. I would relax, soak in the comfort, and enjoy that wonderful salad bar at the buffet again in the evening.

Then I’d take a taxi to the airport, arriving around 1:00 a.m. Monday morning for my 2:40 a.m. flight from Hurghada to Cairo, arriving at 3:40 a.m.—my flight was just $41 on Nile Air. From the Cairo airport, I planned to Uber to the train station and catch one of the frequently available trains to Alexandria, where I could sleep during the three-hour ride.

I would spend Monday and Tuesday night in Alexandria, then take the train back to Cairo on Wednesday, in time for my 4:00 a.m. flight home on Thursday.

It’s the kind of schedule most people would never attempt, with all the middle-of-the-night activity—but I’m a seasoned road warrior and I know my limitations.

I was exhausted when I boarded my 2:40 AM flight and slept like a rock during the one-hour flight. Finding an Uber to get to the Ramses train station was a challenge because of the airport’s confusing, multi-level layout. Eventually, a driver approached me yelling “Rich!” I pulled out my translator app and we made a deal: 500 Egyptian pounds in cash if I canceled the Uber. I agreed, and off we went.

He dropped me near the train station—chaotic, as shown in my previous video—but I knew my way around. I cut through the crowded kiosks, traffic, and trash to reach the station.

The station has different counters on opposite ends: one for regular service, one for overnight trains, and separate ones for foreigners like me, who pay much more than Egyptian citizens. After being sent to the wrong counters a few times, I finally found the right agent and paid $40 for a ticket. It seemed high since my flight from Hurghada was only $41.

I boarded the 6 AM train and was shown to a comfortable reclining seat. I slept for another three hours until we reached Alexandria.