EGYPT

THE VALLEY OF THE KINGS

So far, all my adventures in Luxor were on the East Bank of the Nile, the heart of ancient Egyptian civilization. Now I was headed to the West Bank, where the pharos were transported for burial.

The Valley of the Kings is especially unique because all the tombs are underground. With temperatures now soaring above 100°F, that was definitely a plus.

To date, 62 tombs have been discovered in the Valley, and the area is still actively being explored. Much of it remains buried under layers of earth, untouched for thousands of years—so more tombs may yet be found.

There is growing optimism among archaeologists that the tomb of QUEEN NEFERTITI  may be discovered soon. This would be a Big Deal because NEFERTITI is the only Queen who ever achieved the status of a pharaoh. Egyptologist Dr. Zahi Hawass has expressed confidence that 2025 could be the year her mummy is identified, alongside other significant archaeological findings. This would be a significant discovery rivaling that of King Tut himself.

I was excited to visit the tomb of Tutankhamun—King Tut—who reigned from around 1332 to 1323 BCE and whose tomb was famously discovered in 1922. But when I arrived, I was told I needed a separate ticket, available only from a kiosk near the cafeteria.

Crossing the open field under the blazing sun, I reached the kiosk—only to find it was out of order. I pointed to the machine and asked a nearby waiter what I should do. He directed me to a man standing alone in the middle of the field studying something.

I approached him, and to my surprise, he spoke excellent English. He turned out to be a well-educated Egyptologist, and he gave me some honest advice: “Don’t bother with Tutankhamun’s tomb,” he said. “All of the artifacts—and even King Tut’s remains—are now housed in the museum in Cairo.”

Instead, he recommended Tomb #14, belonging to TOUSERT/SETNAKHT, saying it was the most impressive of the 62 tombs. He pointed me toward it—and I noticed not a single tourist heading in that direction.

I thanked him and offered a tip, but he politely refused. He also warned me about something I had already figured out:“You’ll be approached by many so-called guides who don’t speak English and will pester you just to line their pockets with dollars and euros.”

This guy was the real deal!

The Valley of the Kings is unique because all its tombs are underground—a welcome relief in 100°F heat. So far, 62 tombs have been found, with more likely hidden beneath the earth.

There’s growing excitement among archaeologists that Queen Nefertiti’s tomb might be discovered soon. As the only queen to become pharaoh, finding her remains would rival the discovery of King Tut.

I planned to visit Tutankhamun’s tomb but was told I needed a separate ticket from a kiosk that was out of order. A man studying nearby, an English-speaking Egyptologist, advised me not to bother—the artifacts and Tut’s mummy are now in Cairo’s museum.

He recommended Tomb #14 (Tousert/Setnakht) instead—the most impressive and nearly tourist-free. He also warned me about fake guides pestering visitors for money. This guy was the real deal.

I entered the gate of Tomb #14 and began walking deeper down the shaft, passing impressive hieroglyphs and tombs. It was one of the most spectacular experiences of my entire adventure. Along the way I only encountered one other person.

Ready to call it a day, I walked out finding my cab driver waiting happily. I had him take me to the Hilton Luxor. Along the way he gave me his card and we discussed the possibility of him taking me to ASWAM following day. $80 US seemed a good deal. I had an option. 

The hotel was nearly empty. As I walked in, they scanned my backpack. Looking beat up, and carrying my 35-year-old, tattered pack, I was approached by a well-dressed gentleman who asked if I had a reservation.

I told him no—that I was checking it out first. “I can help you” He said, looking somewhat concerned, particularly, because I only had an old backpack and may property like busy other guests.

I pulled out my Hilton app and pointed to my status:

“Lifetime Diamond Member.”

He raised his hands with a broad smile and said,

“Welcome to your second home!”

I toured the property and was impressed by its stunning stone-clad rotunda and several beautiful infinity pools overlooking the Nile. For 30,000 points a night, I agreed. I Was Home!

Ready to call it a day, I found my cab driver waiting and asked him to take me to the Hilton Luxor. Along the way, he gave me his card and offered to take me to Aswan the next day for $80—a good deal.

The hotel was nearly empty. As I entered, my worn 35-year-old backpack drew attention, and a well-dressed man asked if I had a reservation. I said no, just checking it out.

I showed him my Hilton app and my “Lifetime Diamond Member” status. His face lit up: “Welcome to your second home!”

I toured the stunning property—stone rotunda, infinity pools overlooking the Nile—and for 30,000 points a night, I happily settled in. I was home.

I swam in the reflecting pools and had a few cold beers—for the first time on the trip. That night, something didn’t sit right with me, but thankfully it passed quickly. Was it the beer? Or maybe the faucet water I used to brush my teeth? Either way, I made a decision: only bottled water from now on, and no more alcohol until I returned home. 

I’ve gotten sick on the road before and it’s no fun. When you’re sick on the road and by yourself, it’s even less fun. When you’re sick on the road and buy yourself in Egypt, it could be a disaster.

It was an average sized room, but one amenity at the Hilton Luxor was the private outdoor balcony. I washed my sweaty clothes and used it to hang them to dry in the afternoon sun, where the dry heat soared above 100°. I figured I now had enough clean clothes to last the rest of the trip.

With no set plans for the next leg of my journey, I started weighing my options.

ASWAN was more than three hours south by car and known for its historical importance. But the further south that I traveled, the hotter it would be. And there were no Hiltons.