Though disappointed, I had pushed myself beyond practicality already.  Berundi was also disappointed, though he supported my decision, choosing option 2,  I went back to my tent and in that next 2 hours I slept better than any time in 5 nights.  I awoke at 10:30, packed up, and we were on our way.

What could have been done to change the outcome?  Had I chosen to take the Diamox I believe the results would have been different.  Had I found a way to sleep more soundly I think I would have made it.  Had we used the oxygen sensor I would have verified that my inability to go on was not altitude sickness, but exhaustion.  I then would have taken the necessary rest and made it to the top.  I later went online to see what it costs for the oxygen sensor – $35.  If I ever hike in altitude again I will have one in my pack.  

About 20 years ago my sons Nick and Zack joined me on a quest to summit Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the lower 48.  We encountered high winds at our camp site of 12,000’, and Todd, our guide, communicated with his contacts on his satellite phone.  They advised that summiting would be far too risky.  I always regretted not making that summit, particularly because sharing that moment with my boys would be unforgettable for us.  But not summiting does not constitute a failure.  We can’t expect success with every endeavor.  In the case of Mt Whitney, our youngest son Rick was too young to join us at the time.  Rick is now in better shape than any of us, and that option still exists for me and all three of them!  Will I ever attempt Kilimanjaro again?  It will remain one of the humbling experiences that we all face, never resulting in its much-desired conclusion, but an incredible experience that I will never regret!

After getting back to Hotel Wonder I adjusted the climate control, took 2 hot showers, and crawled between the sheets of a real bed.  I was mesmerized by my improved state, compared to the sad shape that I was in just 1 hour ago.  I then went downstairs to the bar and ordered a large pizza and a few Kilimanjaro lagers.  The large pizza was designed for 2 but being the very best food I had my entire trip, I ate it all.  The next day Berundi came by to treat me to a farewell lunch.  He brought me to an Asian / Italian restaurant and along with a few Kilimanjaro beers, I foolishly ordered the Lasagna.  “Beer, Good.  Lasagna, Not Good!”, I commented to Berundi.  I also commented to Berundi that I still had yet to see another white person in Moshi.  Berundi told me that shortly after dropping me off at the hotel yesterday he had passed a fruit stand and saw one, as if he had seen a UFO or something!  We exchanged photos via airdrop, said our farewells, and Berundi took me back to my hotel.  I spent 2 days convalescing in my room and contributing to this story, while anticipating my three days of Safari that followed.  I also developed stomach pain that I carry to this day.  The next day I developed a low-grade fever that would creep in at night.  I felt it dissipate by mid-morning but didn’t feel it getting any better.  I checked with Nancy for advice on what antibiotic to choose from.  I do not want to be stopped from entering my plane in 2 days because I was screened out due to a temperature issue!  Cipro it is!  My slightly high temperature was knocked out on time for my flight, though rumbling around in a Jeep for 3 days was not helping my constantly upset stomach.   

This was November 25th and Safari Day 1 and our final destination was TARANGIRE N.P. TANZANIA.  We head out to get my COVID test in Moshi before our 4-hour drive to the park. It was scheduled to open at 7:00 AM.  My Safari Guide, Benny, was to pick me up at 7:00 and take me to the test. When we arrived at the hospital, I was totally taken back by how primitive a Tanzanian hospital could be.  On a good note, everything was in open air, rather than an enclosed building with climate control.  I suppose this offers significant benefits with regard to transmission of disease and bacteria, but the place was very unkept.  Broken up walkways, chipping paint with cracked walls, all of the primitive features that I came to expect at anywhere in Moshi.  But being like anywhere else in Moshi, their patients didn’t mind.  When we arrived, we were told that we needed to come back at 9:00, because the person implemented the test will not arrive until then.  

I told Benny about my stomach pain and he suggested a doctor.  He knew a doctor whose brother was one of the porters on my hike named Stevie.  I’m beginning to feel at home here!  I have a letter from my insurance company but expected it to be a cash deal for the brief consultation.  We got to his office around 8 to find he had yet to arrive and I wasn’t waiting.  I wanted to bring some things home for Nancy so I told Benny what I wanted.   Benny knew where to go and took me to a city center market.  It was supposed to be open, but no one had gotten there yet.  Sensing the pattern, “Hakuna Matata”, the culture does not find efficiency in high regard.  We waited for the store sales person to arrive and when she did, I found her delightful!  She helped me pick out and modeled a few dresses for Nancy and encouraged me with regard to the Safari that I was about to experience.  We then knocked out the COVID test.  The results were needed by Saturday morning and the email arrived on time.  “Negative”, but no one ever asked me for those results.  

My schedule was to tour Tarangire NP on Thursday, Ngorongoro Crater NP on Friday, and Lake Manyara NP on Saturday, before flying out that evening.  I learned that a Safari is an experience that needs to be done in person.  It allows one to realize how profound nature can be, right before your eyes!  It cannot be replicated in print or with video or photographs.  Unlike other wildlife experiences in the outdoors, such as birdwatching, hunting or fishing etc., Safari presents unpredictable encounters.  We crept into the gate and I continued to appreciate my cloak of COVID.  Only 2 other jeeps and 3 other white guys!  At that point it didn’t take long for the action to begin!   I was amazed by it!   They are not afraid of us, and many, such as Elephants, are very social.  They come right up to the jeep!  Tarangire NP is rather dry, somewhat hilly, and features the Tarangire River that we traverse over bridges throughout the day.  Everything captivated me!  ZEBRA!!  WILDA BEAST!  BUFFALO!  Over the next 3 days I would see many  thousands of these in their natural habitat, happy, healthy, and safe..  My most exciting encounter of the day was the Elephants and Giraffes that were more plentiful here than I had seen in any other park.  I saw over 100 Elephants and 60 or more Giraffes in those 3 days. On our last day we stumbled upon one of nature’s most incredible events. While it happens in Africa regularly, very few get to see it up close.  More about that later.

Amazed by my experience, but still feeling my stomach churning with the help of the rumbling jeep, we head to our campground.  Because of our delay that morning we arrived in the dark and later than expected.  I had only paid for tent camping and was spending 2 nights at an absolutely wonderful place called the “Heaven Nature” campground near Lake Manyara.  I was told that I could stand up in these tents and that there were actual beds in them rather than sleeping pads.  I was also told it was just a short walk to a separate building that had a real bathroom with a hot shower and that Wi-Fi and electricity were available.  It was a $650 savings to opt for the tents, but having just left the Wonder hotel in Moshi I was not looking forward ro a downgrade.  The owner of the campground was a fine man named Ishmeal.  His English was excellent and we spoke for about an hour.  His aid, Israel, prepared our dinner. Ishmeal was about my age and he filled me in on many historic events that impacted his country.  He seemed to know what I was interested in and I appreciated his contribution to my adventure.  After dinner, Ishmeal walked me to my sleeping quarters.  Since I was the only one at the entire campground, he upgraded me to an awesome room with electricity and a hot shower!   Yet another example of the extreme Highs and Lows that this adventure presented from day to day!

Friday November 26^th was my 2^nd day of Safari.  The NGORONGORO CRATER of NGORONGORO National Park was formed 2.5 million years ago.  When entering the Park, one must have a 4-wheel drive vehicle to climb the steep incline over the lip, and traverse down to get to the base of the massive crater.  During the ride, particularly up the crater, we saw ove r 1,000 Baboons, many times having to slow to a near stop for them to move out of our way.  Once in the crater the wide open plain allows for the viewing of tens of thousands of large mammals roaming free.