AFRICA

Day 2, Thursday November 18^th was a 3,250’ climb over 9 miles to 12,795’, SHIRA CAMP 1.  Out of the jungle and into the “Moreland” ecosystem.  This part included traversing Elephant Back Ridge.  I loved it!  Berundi and I were getting to know one another by now and I was having fun.  At about 3 miles we hit Shira 1 camp and completed most of the necessary incline.  It was a beautiful spot and once past the ridge, Kibo was in sight although partially obscured by clouds.  The entire area is referred to as the Kilimanjaro Mountain Range with the mother of the 3 major peaks called “Kibo”.  To the east is Mawenzi and Arusha to the west.   This is why Kilimanjaro is referred to as the single tallest mountain in the world, but in actuality the true name is “Kibo”.   

At Shira Camp 1 we had lunch, and by now I figured out what items that they had prepared for me were digestible and otherwise relied on my snacks.  The day that I met Berundi he asked me if I ate meat.  Knowing the necessity for protein during this event I said “Sure!”  What I didn’t know was that the meat they served was so tough that about 65% was left in my mouth like chewing on a tire.  About 5% got stuck between my teeth and 30% is what these folks consider “food”.  I directed Jessie, my cook, through pointing, how much I am enjoying the oranges (that are green), the papaya like fruit, and anything that he served that came out of the ground and that he didn’t mess with.  This left bananas as a clear option and bananas are more abundant in Tanzania than dirt, but having had an abundance of bananas since arriving a few days ago I had already had quite enough!  Feeling I had eaten all that I can tolerate for lunch at the moment I was primarily hydrating with water enhanced with a tinge of Gatorade and ready to head out to our destination – Shira 2.  Berundi asked if I was ready and I balked “I’ve been waiting for 2 hours!”.  This became our little game.  Whenever one of us was ready and asked the other if they were also ready the response was “I’ve been waiting for 2 hours!”.  In nearly all cases it was Berundi waiting for me, but when I was finally ready to go, that was my response.

So, morning #1 was about to commence and I was itching to get on the trail!  The temperature was perfect and was pretty much perfect most of the time we were hiking, other than the final “Big Push” day at over 15,000’ and at midnight.  It did rain most days but predictably around 1:00 till 3:00ish.  If you ask any of the guides about weather conditions don’t expect to get any straight answers.  While in my particular situation conditions were fairly consistent, the last thing they want to do is set you up for the unpredictable disappointment such as a possible huge deluge of rain or literally days in the clouds and fog.  What I experienced each day was perfectly clear mornings with little wind.  Clouds would develop mid-morning and a mix of clouds and sun was welcome!  Sunscreen was an absolute must and I would change layers many times from a tee shirt to long sleeves over my tee shirt, to just my long sleeve, and such a combination with my puffy.

KILIMANJARO. What If? Rescue procedures are critical here. Guides have phones with special chips allowing communication from many strategic points with helicopter pads in various locations and 8 people are required to implement a rescue and evacuation attempt. I learned on day 2 that helicopter rescue was terminated when COVID began as the climbing population reverted from a virtual ant hill to what you see in my posts. Tourism is the heart of the Tanzanian economy. If you check the Kilimanjaro National Park website they do little to discourage and certainly make no mention of their terminating normal rescue procedures,  They want your money. Having been here for a week I can tell you that they certainly need it. 

So, after arriving at SHIRA 2 and hangin out a bit the pattern continued.  Get my ass kicked on the trail, fall asleep.  Jessie serves food that only 15% is edible, I eat a snack while pounding Gatorade tinted water, and fall asleep again, and by 8:30 or so, I am awake.  I could likely continue to sleep had it not been for my uncomfortable sleeping conditions, but unknown challenges such as inability to sleep was what I signed up for.  I did not anticipate such unforeseen challenges would compare to a “Gung-Ho” teenager enlisted in marine boot camp!  

And GO we did.  That 6 miles will remain memorable because a 9-mile day with 3,250’ incline is a Hell of a tough day for me anymore, particularly at altitude.  I was ready to crash in my tent immediately!  We finally arrived to find the porters, who have to carry more, on their heads, and get there faster, are PLAYING SOCCER!!  I know, if you’re not from the states it’s “Football” and Football is all that I have seen on TV anywhere in Tanzania since my arrival.  Among the things that I see Tanzanians do to prevail over us is that I don’t see anyone watching the news and letting political stuff infringe on their values.  Watch Football!  I met 2 Dutchmen at SHIRA 2; brothers by the names of Ollie and Jules.  They asked where I was from and I said “New York”.  Ollie then said “Where’s that?”.  I then said “The States”.  That gave me the option to clear up my ignorance with regard to their country.  “So, I flew in from Amsterdam.  You guys are Dutch, then there’s Holland, and where does The Netherlands fit in?”.  After their educating me, Idle conversation got a bit more personal and they told me what they did for jobs and that this was only the beginning of a 6-week adventure for the boys.  Europeans always make plenty of time to spend with family any personal well-being than Americans and some of us never grasp the value. 

Day 3 is MY 66^th BIRTHDAY! November 19^th.  Hike from Shira 2 to BARRANCO Camp via Lava Tower at 15,092’, a 2,297’ climb beginning at 13,066’.  The plan is to climb towards the main peak, circle around LAVA TOWER, then drop back down 12,795’ to BARANCO Camp.  My Birthday present?  A Perfect Morning With Perfect VIEWS OF KIBO and the sun rising behind the Mother of all African mountains!  Western glaciers become clearly visible across the rugged high-altitude desert of volcanic rocks and boulders.  Now THAT’S what I’M TALKIN ABOUT!!!  And the gift keeps on giving!  As we are now above the clouds that hang over the underlying village of Moshi, this becomes the visibility conditions each morning for the rest of the adventure!  I feel strong, in spite of the somewhat brutal previous day.  As I peer upon KIBO in all its beauty, Berundi asks “Are you ready?”.  He knows my answer, “I’ve been waiting for 2 hours!”

But I’m not sure if my body would be ready for how it reacted approaching 15,000’.  I’ve been to 18,000+ on that volcano in Chile, but that seemed ages ago.   “Pole pole!!”  The landscaped from about 2 miles back shows the chunk of the LAVA TOWER.  Berundi points it out and as we got closer, it gets harder.  It was then that we encounter a group of 4 actual white guys and we passed one another a couple times. They were playing some kind of music that I didn’t like but they were attempting to bop with it and any advantage anyone could come up with at this point is fair game!  The first time we passed them I gave them the “thumbs up”.  The second time they passed us as we were seated for a break.  Since “Pole Pole” was the strategy, I had a moment to ask the most common of questions, “Where are you guys from?”, I asked, “Czech Republic”, said the tallest and biggest in his thick accent.  He sported a full Santa Claus beard.  “You?”   He continued.  “New York”, I responded.   Not quite sure if he heard me or not, or if he was as hypoxic as I was, but like the Dutchmen, his response was “Where’s that?”.  “The States”, I called back in a loud and clear voice.  “Oh!”, he said, and by now his “Pole pole” shuffle was beyond me and his 3 buddies passed as well.  They motioned with a hypoxic, half-hearted wave or thumbs up.  

Berundi pointed to the top of the tower and said, “We won’t be going up there”. Not sure what he meant, l glanced to the top of the tower and was surprised to see 2 people walking about on top of it. “Too much chance of avalanche” Berundi said. I think he was making an excuse to scare his
clients and keep it simple. I am a Big fan of simplicity at this point! We were now about 75 yards from the LAVA TOWER Medallion. As we followed behind the by about 120’ Berundi and I looked on as the Czech guys reached the Tower and let out a cheer. A few minutes later we also were their and the moment became an obvious photo op with myself and Berundi posing as the Czechs guide took the photos. Berundi than took my camera from him to get a solo photo of me and after doing so I said, “Shoot a video!”.

Berundi put it in video mode and began rolling.  The Czech guys were about 15’ to my left and I decided to make an announcement.  “Hey guys”, I called.  “Today is my Birthday!”  The bearded guy led in the response and we passed “High Fives”.  I then called out, “I want you to all guess my age!”  The bearded guy seemed to be the only one that completely understood and he looked at me and paused for a moment.  He then said, “you can’t be 60?…57!”  I pointed to his buddy to his left and he said “56?”  The 2 others muttered something though I think one of those 2 didn’t know what was going on.  “67!”, I yelled, and another round of High-Fives ensued with far more enthusiasm.  That was a great moment for me.  Making that immediate connection with these guys whom l know nothing about will never be forgotten.  The fact that they shot so low was also quite helpful to my ego, and though I am actually 66, I lost track months ago and gained a year

Berundi and I then found a sunny spot and he handed me my lunch.  I dug for my snacks and alternated eating them with the fruit in Barundi’s package while doused it with my Gatorade tinted water.  I took the half sandwich out of the package provided by Berundi and pondered, “Should I? You must eat”, I thought.  What harm could it do?”.  I plunged into the sandwich to find the crusty and dry excuse for “lunch” to be worse than expected.  I Heald it up and called to Berundi, “I think I’m full.  Do ya want to save it for the guys”.  He certainly did.